Que Sera Syrah: The Futures Are Ours to See

2011 Santa Barbara County Wine Futures 

With apologies to Evans and Livingston for rephrasing their Academy Award winning song, the Wine House gave us an opportunity to glimpse the future at its third annual tasting on May 22, 2011.  Whether it's the economy or whether it's a second-fiddle attitude toward Santa Barbara (compared to Napa and Sonoma), each successive year the LA tasting has been scaled back from its grand inaugural at the Century Plaza Hotel.  Fewer wineries, and fewer wines from each winery.  It's a sad commentary, because Santa Barbara offers some truly wonderful wines; moreover, it's in our backyard.

This year's event was held above the Wine House, spilling out from its Upstairs 2 restaurant space onto its parking lot.  Missing were some of my past favorites: Alma Rosa, Au Bon Climat, Kaena and Qupe, to name a few.  Each winery was limited to two wines.  While this allowed me to sample virtually everything, I prefer to taste more efforts from select wineries.

Futures, if you're not familiar with the term, are wines that have not yet been released.  They are next year's releases, and may take up to a year to be delivered.  Consequently, what you taste is not fully evolved; another year of aging will bring out the wine's truer characteristics.  That being said, wineries offer futures at a discount because they get your money up front, and give you an opportunity to secure a wine that may be in short supply... in the future.   

Insights and Buying Recommendations
Reminder: My taste tends toward lighter to medium body reds, and leaner, less oak-infused whites.  I prefer food-friendly wines, whatever that means.  So, by varietal, here is what I would buy.  You can order these wines by June 30, 2011 through the Wine House.  Where possible, I have also included links to the wineries, so you can learn more about them, if you wish.

Syrah

Tensley 2010 Tierra Alta Vineyard - $28 (release price $36).  While many California Syrahs are big, fruity wines, Joey Tensley's are more elegant and easy-drinking.  By the way, his other offering Tensley Colson Canyon Vineyard was #17 of the Wine Spectator's Top 100 last year.  A bigger wine, but still fine ($28 with a $38 release price).  Joey strikes me as a no nonsense gentleman farmer, and a good guy.  His wife, Lea, offers a fruit-forward Lea 2010 Turner Valley Pinot Noir - $28 (release price $38) that was the favorite of one taster.

Harrison-Clarke 2008 Estate Santa Ynez Valley - $26 (release price $36).  Another rounder-styled Syrah from a truly nice couple, who hail from my hometown of Chicago.  I preferred this profile to the richer, more costly 2007 Cuvee Charlotte Estate SYV - $44 (release price $52), but that's just me.

Viognier

Blair Fox 2009 Paradise Road - $24 (release price $29).  I've loved these guys ever since the first SB Futures tasting.  They special in small lots, hand-harvested grapes and you can taste the love.  I think I shared my Cheese Store of Beverly Hills stash with Blair and Sarah at the 2nd annual futures event; I didn't realize that there would be food... 

Cold Heaven 2010 Le Bon Climat Santa Ynez Valley - $25 (release price $32).  Okay, I confess, I have a bit of a crush on winemaker Morgan Clendenden, but I wouldn't be alone.  This top-notch effort really sang to me and can age a bit, which is rare for California viogniers.

Chardonnay

Clos Pepe 2010 Barrel Fermented Santa Rita Hills - $22 (release price $28).  A really nice, entry-level-priced offering from Wes Hagen.  Nice balance between fruit and light oak; medium bodied, more of a French Chablis style.  You've got to love a winemaker who has his own blog, http://www.weshagen.wordpress.com/.

Paul Lato 2010 "Le Souvenir" Sierra Madre Vineyard Santa Maria Valley - $45 (release price $55).  Paul's reputation as a winemaker preceded him, the "mailing list only" kind of praise that could give someone a big head.  On the contrary, I was greeted by a warm, kind-hearted man who I immediately liked.  Paul is from Poland, again showing the international nature of today's winemaking, with stops in Spain and Toronto where he studied to become a sommelier.  Perhaps that gave him a particular focus on pairing wine with food.  His Chardonnay was ripe, round and almost Burgundian in character.  It is definitely a wine for a special occasion.

La Fenetre 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard, Block Eleven, Santa Maria Valley - $45 (release price $60).  Joshua Klapper named his wine for "window" in French, because he believes that it acts as a window to his soul.  That's what draws me to winemakers.  As one who worked his way into winemaking from being the wine director at Sona, he learned his ropes from such legends as Bob Lindquist (Qupe) and Jim Clendenden (Au Bon Climat).  Wonderful balance in this Chard; again, more of a French style.   

Pinot Noir
My favorite varietal provided many winners.

Flying Goat 2008 Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard Santa Rita Hills - $38 (release price $46).  Norm Yost has been making wine for 25 years, and still embodies a youthful, playful enthusiasm.  He must be doing something right!  Love their logo and their wines.  Well-balanced, elegant, with nice fruit.

Foxen 2009 La Encantada Vineyard Santa Rita Hills - $50 (release price $56).  While a bit out of my usual price range, this wine has a silky mouthfeel and a long finish with great balance.  When in Santa Ynez, a visit to their hilltop tasting room is a pleasure.  Winemakers Bill Wathen and Dick Dore have been delivering smiles for 30 years.

Samsara (Sanskrit for "eternal cycle of life") 2009 Turner Vineyard and/or 2009 Melville Vineyard, both Santa Rita Hills - $37/38 (release prices $46/$48).  I love both, with a slight nod to the latter.  Winemaker Chad Melville (son of Ron Melville of Melville Vineyards and Winery) scores again.  The Santa Rita Hills is a glorious region for Pinot Noir.  Both are balanced with plenty of fruit.

Ojai 2008 Presidio Vineyard Santa Barbara County - $40 (release price $46).  Winemaker Adam Tolmach produces this cool climate Pinot Noir that is gentle, feminine and has a nice finish.  Just barely over 13% in alcohol, this wine will age nicely, but is drinking wonderfully even now.

Melville 2010 Carrie's Santa Rita Hills - $42 (release price $50).  I have been a fan of all of Melville's Pinot Noirs, even the entry level, which Carrie's is not.  This new offering is quite extraordinary, combining fruit, earthiness and a great mouthfeel.  Winemaker Greg Brewer (of Brewer-Clifton fame) is one of the region's stars.

Grenache

Dragonette 2010 Santa Ynez Valley - $29 (release price $35).  I am a big fan of this winery, more known for their Pinot Noirs, which I enjoyed at a recent Wally's tasting.  Winemaker Brandon Sparks-Gillis delivers, and if you're a fan of this varietal that has a relatively small profile in California.  Lush and round, but not overbearing. 

Jaffurs 2008 Santa Barbara County - $29 (release price $34). Just plain good, with a lingering finish.

Rey-La Cosecha 2008 Grenache Central Coast - $19 (release price $24).  You've got to love winemaker Chris and Deanna King (who had a baby around her neck).  For the price, you can't go wrong.

Pinot Gris

Carr 2010 Turner Vineyard Santa Rita Hills - $14 (release price $20).  Rare sighting this far south of Oregon, but a fine, easy-going summer wine.  I've been a fan of Ryan (and Jessica) Carr's Pinot Noirs for sometime, but this is a great alternative for a party-starter.  Visit their tasting room in downtown Santa Barbara.

Sangiovese
Carr 2010 Vandale Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley - $22 (release price $30).  One of my favorite varietals (the grape of Chianti and Brunello), it's not often successfully realized in California.  Rich, round and smooth; nice effort.

Sauvignon Blanc
Dragonette 2010 SantaYnez Valley - $20 (release price $26). Their entry-level is fine, crisp and refreshing, although I prefer their Happy Canyon release (available at Wally's).

Rarer Varietals
Holus Bolus 2010 Blanc (Roussane) - $16 (release price $20).  More often seen in blends, this Roussane was a balanced, fruity yet round offering.  Could stand up to food.

Tercero 2009 Camp 4 Mouvedre Santa Barbara County - $25 (release price $30).  Full disclosure, I didn't actually taste Larry Schaffer's wines this time around; I couldn't get past the crowds.  Perhaps due to his marketing background, Larry  puts on a great show.  Because I have enjoyed and purchased his wines in the past, this gets my nod.  Try his Rhone varietals and see for yourself; he and his wines are infectious (in a good way).

How can I taste so many wines (and remember)?
I sniffed, swished and spit (and only occasionally swallowed); that's the only way to get through this many wines.  While I'm still honing my spitting skills, it seems somewhat off-putting to go through this routine and then declare to the winemaker, "That was wonderful."  And, although I hate to waste, I've got to keep some wits about me. Oh, and I take notes...

You have less than a week left to purchase these futures, so don't hesitate or you'll have to take your chances finding (and paying for) these wines after they are released.  If enough futures are sold, perhaps next year the event can regain some of its former luster.  As always, please let me know your impressions, and if you enjoy my perspective, please share with your friends.  Thank you.