Pretty in Pink: A Rosé by Any Other Name

With apologies to John Hughes’ classic movie starring Molly Ringwald, most wine choices come down to red or white.  While I prefer red – albeit the lighter versions such as Pinot Noir – and white wines certainly have their moments, there are times when only a “pink” wine will do.  For me, it’s those hot summer days.  And, while the calendar says “October,” and it may be raining, I suspect there may be one hot spell left this calendar year, particularly since we didn’t get many hot days on the Westside of Los Angeles this summer.

Just what is “pink” wine?  It doesn’t come from pink grapes; it actually comes from red grapes, but the skins are removed early in the fermentation process.  Many of us Wonder Year kids (I prefer this to Baby Boomers) were introduced to wine-drinking through Portuguese rosés: either Lancers or Mateus (the latter always seemed more sophisticated because it had a cooler bottle and was harder to pronounce).  These slightly sparkling lightly alcoholic (11%) rosés were very easy drinking, were very popular in the 1960’s, 70’s and reportedly accounted for almost half of Portugal’s exported table wine in by the late 1980’s.  I guess that the John Hughes’ reference is somewhat timely, after all, because these wines also are nostalgic.  It’s not even clear what grapes were used, but at the time we didn’t care.

While Mateus and Lancers were my introduction to rosés, others were seduced by the now legendary “White” Zinfandel.  The Zinfandel grape originated in Croatia, grows in Italy as Primitivo, and came to California in the 1850’s, mostly with Italian immigrants.  It yields a big red wine that pairs well with steak or veal chops.  Removing the grape skin shortly after the grapes are crushed, however, transforms the proud, intense and higher alcohol Zinfandel into the mild-mannered, easy-drinking pink wine that was very much at home at both pool and cocktail parties.  Think of it as a reverse Superman transformation.  Although wine snobs may jeer at White Zinfandel, apparently it outsells the much lauded “red” Zinfandel six to one.

Enough of the nostalgia and the history lesson, this posting is about the pink wines you might enjoy today.  And there are several interesting choices, both from here and from abroad.  As you may already have surmised, rosés can be spawned by any number of red grapes.  Given my penchant for Pinot Noir, it shouldn’t be a surprise that I am fond of Pinot Rosés.  My first discovery came on a trip to Mendocino, when I happened upon the Lazy Creek Vineyards in 2005 off a dusty road near Philo, then owned by Josh and Mary Beth Chandler.  At the time, it was just them, their dog and this astonishing wine, which some say have hints of banana and others hints of strawberries.  Since then, the winery has been purchased by the Ferrari Carano folks and, while I abhor the conglomeration of the wine industry, at least Ferrari Carano has a fairly solid rep.  Try it; for about $20, it’s a lot more affordable than Pinot Noir.

A strong contender in this price range is Etude’s Rose of Pinot Noir (which you can find at Wally’s).  Another good choice is Kathy Joseph’s renowned Fiddlehead Cellars’ spunkily-named Pink Fiddle.  Both are great accompaniments to appetizers or could even hold their own with a light meal.

Another intriguing option is Lorenza Rosé is produced by Napa Valley mother-daughter team, Melinda Kearney and Michèle Ouellet.  Since few California wineries produce rosés, I was intrigued to find that this venture ONLY produced rosé.  You have to admire their courage (or their confidence).  I met Melinda and Michèle at a wine tasting at The Wilshire, where I was impressed by them and their wine.  Unusual for an American wine, the 2010 Lorenza Rose is comprised of a very French mix of grapes: Mourvedre 39%, Cinsault 26%, Grenache 24%, Carignan 11%.  The label (featuring a photo of Michèle) suggests that this is fully American version of Rosé guided by the principles and ideals of Provence.  You can purchase it via the website, or through K&L Wines or at The Oaks Gourmet Market near Franklin and Bronson.  You can enjoy it, as my good friend Jonathan and I did, with appetizers at Lucques.  Fermented dry, with a low alcohol content of 12.5%, Lorenza Rosé can even stand up to heartier meals, such pork chops, according to the December 2009 issue of Food & Wine magazine.

The French, of course, have a bit of experience with rosés.  After all, the word even sounds French!  Many regions of France produce rosés, the most famous being Provence and the revered Bandol.  The source grape could be Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre, Cinsault, Carignan or some combination of the above, as well as Pinot Noir.  My friend Etty Lewensztain of Plonk Wine Merchants, says that generally, the lighter the hue of the wine, the lighter the taste. 

The tiny appellation of Bandol is located directly on the Mediterranean coast, just east of Marseilles.  The ancient steep vineyards of Bandol – first planted by Phoenician Greeks c.600BC – are the perfect home of Mourvedre.  At le Galantin, the best vineyards are planted on poor clay and sandy soil on old terraces, known locally as restanques.  The largely south facing vineyards get an extraordinary 3,000 hours of sun a year, but the heat is tempered by constant wind and also humidity from the sea.  The Domaine Le Galantin Rose has fresh berry fruit flavors and a crisp finish.  It is composed of 50% Cinsault, 25% Mourvedre and 25% Grenache.  While many Bandol roses run $30 or more, the le Galantin can be found for under $20 at The Wine House or K&L Wines, where I was introduced to it by the delightful Christie Cartwright. 

Also from Provence is the tantalizingly-named Whispering Angel from Chateau d’Esclans.  It is a blend of Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre, light, fruity yet dry, with almost a creamy mouthfeel.  Plus, the bottle has an alluring, dare I say angelic shape.  It was the consensus winner of a tasting of Provence wines at The Wine House, where even my Cabernet Sauvignon-loving friend Joel admitted he liked it.  You can pick it up for less than $20.  I bought one for my angel, but I’m saving it for that hot evening, so don’t tell her.

There's one more wild card to add to this mix: 8th Generation Vineyard Pinot Meunier Rosé.  This beautiful bottle of wine is a tribute to my Canadian friends and Canadian winemaking.  The family emigrated in 2003 from Germany, home of the previous seven generations of winemakers.  My wife and I consumed a bottle of this wine while waiting 2½ hours for a table at Vancouver’s highly-rated VIJ’s Indian fusion restaurant.  To make the wait more palatable, they provide you with free appetizers.  And it’s an honor bar.  Okay, I’d never waited that long for a table, but it was a beautiful evening and it gave us a chance to chat with a number of Vancouverites. 

While I'd be flattered if you took my advice on these wines, part of the adventure of wine tasting is discovering your own favorties.  You don't need any sophisticated education to judge for yourself.  While rosé wine tastings are not all that commonplace, there is one place to go where you can check out a range of rosés without buying the who bottle.  Each summer, Campanile offers its own version of the “Rose Parade” – rosé flights (three 3-ounce samples, as I recall).  With close to 20 rosés in their Parade, you’ll have plenty from which to choose.  Go on Thursday, grilled cheese night, and the whole bill shouldn’t set you back much.  Good time guaranteed.