Learn About Santa Barbara Wines at 1/23/13 L.A.W. Tasting

Great Tasting Opportunity at the Peninsula, Beverly Hills

For those of you who know me or follow my blogs, you know that I'm often jonesing about about Santa Barbara wines. There are three reasons for this: (1) the region is within a two-hour drive from home in LA; (2) the wines are really good; and (3) both the winemakers and the wine-tasting are fun, easy-going and approachable.

Ian Blackburn and Learn About Wine (L.A.W.)

You know how some folks come up with a great idea, and you wonder, "Why didn't I think of that?" Well, I am envious of Ian. For years now, his wine-related events have done more than just provide a convivial atmosphere for people to mingle, he should be credited with creating a forum where you can learn about wine. Especially noteworthy are his regionally-based events, such as tomorrow's Stars of Santa Barbara tasting from 7pm to 9:30pm at the Beverly Hills Peninsula Hotel. Not only do these events give patrons the opportunity to get to know the variety and specialties of a region, they also allow patrons to get acquainted with the winemakers, who are often pouring their wines. These are the stars of Santa Barbara.

If memory serves me, years ago it was Ian who hosted a movie preview and wine-tasting event at The Grove. Although for me the movie was just an extra bonus, and I wasn't expecting much, it was Sideways, which became a cult hit and paean to Santa Barbara. The post-movie wine-tasting was poured by the winemakers featured in the movie. Now, it doesn't get much better than that. 

What to taste and who to seek out

From Santa Barbara, you can expect some great Pinot Noirs and some superb Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs, with other varietals sprinkled in. Wednesday's line-up is a veritable A-to-Z, from Alma Rosa (the new winery of Richard Sanford of Sanford Benedict fame, the progenitor of Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara) to Zaca Mesa.

Pinot Noir fans should check out Alma Rosa, Bonaccorsi, Brewer-Clifton (Greg Brewer, also Melville's winemaker and Steve Clifton, also Palmina's winemaker), Clos Pepe (winemaker Wes Hagen), Dierberg, Dragonette (winemaker Brandon Sparks-Gillis), Flying Goat (winemaker Norm Yost), Kessler-Haak, La Fenetre (winemaker Joshua Klapper), Riverbench, Tantara and Thorne Cellars (winemaker Ken Brown), as well as the very affordable and highly rated Cambria.

Sauvignon Blanc aficionados should check out Buttonwood Farm, Dragonette and any wines from the Happy Canyon vineyards.

Chardonnay lovers should check out Bonaccorsi, Brewer-Clifton, Clos Pepe, Dierberg, La Fenetre and Riverbench.

Women winemakers and their particular perspective are well represented by Jenne Lee Bonaccorsi of Bonaccorsi wines, Karen Steinwachs of Buttonwood Farm, Clarissa Nagy of Riverbench, Chris Curran of D'Alfonso-Curran and Denise Shurtleff of Cambria Winery.

Wild cards: Part of the fun of wine-tasting events is to discover new wines or varietals, so instead of just going to the established names, check out some that are unfamiliar. While Andrew Murray is an established name, famous for his Syrahs, see if he has a Viognier with him. All of D'Alfonso-Curran's wines are interesting, but see if Chris Curran has her Grenache Blanc. Larry Schaffer of Tercero Wines features a number of Rhone varietals and always draws a crowd because of his warm personality; Palmina features a number of Italian varietals and famed winemaker Steve Clifton. Check out Silver Wines, Shai Cellars, Lafond and Jaffurs, all offering a unique take on Santa Barbara and some great stories. If you like a particular wine or winemaker, ask whoever is pouring to suggest others that you might enjoy. Treat the event as a search for unknown treasure; you never know what you might find or who you might meet. I'll be there.       

Don't Pass Over These Other Passover Wines, unless you're wed to Manischewitz or Mogen David...

First of all, a disclaimer: I am NOT an expert in Kosher wines, let alone Kosher-for-Passover wines.  I grew up, like many others, on Manischewitz and Mogen David; my brother and his wife, while appreciators of other wines, prefer Manischewitz for Passover, perhaps because it makes the holiday special or reminds them of past associations.  Both of these legendary wines (hailing from the 1920's, with no discernible expiration date) are made with Concord grapes (think Welch's), which were easily available to New York Jews who created these wines.

While I know rabbis and more observant Jews who are fine with non-kosher wines, there are times when I would like to bring a nice bottle of kosher wine where it might be important to the recipients.  So my friend Jonathan and I took the opportunity to sample kosher wines at a recent tasting hosted by The Wine House.  This post includes our picks, and a bit of background.  

What makes a wine Kosher?

Of course, I've asked (and been asked) this question many times.  Having been steeped in the Socratic tradition, I think of the question in reverse: What would make a wine non-kosher?  In the old days (i.e., pre-Internet), I might have consulted the elders or The World Book Encyclopedia (Britannica was too dense for me).  Today, of course, I can ask Google, or with the iPhone 4S, Siri.  For any of you who have done research on the Internet, you find a range of information, some accurate, some not so; of course, this probably would have been true when consulting the elders as well.

According to http://www.wine.com/, a kosher wine begins like every other – as grapes on a vine that may be grown and picked by any one (kosher or non-kosher). However, from crushing through bottling, the wine must be handled and processed by Sabbath-observing Jews. Barrels and tanks must be deemed kosher for use. The rabbi or Kashrut trained supervisor must observe all of the wine making process and no work can be done on the Sabbath.

The experts behind Wikipedia take a stricter approach, saying: To be considered kosher, a Sabbath-observant Jew must be involved in the entire wine making process from the harvesting of the grapes, through fermentation to bottling.  While none of the ingredients that makes up wine (alcohol, sugars, acidity and phenols) is considered non-kosher, any ingredients that are used, including finings (to refine the wine), must be kosher.^[1]  In addition, wine that is described as "kosher for Passover" must have been kept free from contact with grain, bread and dough.^[2]  None other than Martha Stewart agrees with all the above (but, then again, her researchers might have consulted Wikipedia).

As with many things in Judaism (or perhaps any religion that allows commentary), what makes something kosher has many, often conflicting opinions.  The kashrut laws involving wine also are concerned with who handles the wine; this brings us to the term mevushal, which according to Covenant Wines is perhaps the most misunderstood term in the kosher wine tradition.  In Hebrew, mevushal means literally boiled. However, mevushal wines are not quite heated to a boiling temperature. Mevushal wines are nonetheless flash-pasteurized to a temperature that meets the requirements of an overseeing rabbinical authority. The technique does not necessarily harm the wine. In fact, a few well known non-kosher wine makers, such as Château Beaucastel, utilize flash pasteurization and believe it may enhance aromatics.

Not unexpectedly, Conservative and Orthodox Jews have different views on kosher wines.  For a more in-depth discussion, see both the aforementioned Wikipedia and a very studious exploration in Kosher Wine 101 from the Wine Musings Blog, which contains some interesting nuances concerning the law of Shmita that forbids the sowing or growing in the land of Israel every 7th year.  This gets a bit dense for me, involving labels, approvals and work-arounds.

Now, on to the wine tasting

Jonathan and I tasted more than a dozen wines.  While all of the wines were palatable and a better alternative to Manischewitz, the following stood out to us, either because of their easy drinkability, low price, complexity or a combination of the above.
 
 

2009 Gilgal Chardonnay
(Golan Heights - Israel) $11.99

Easy-drinking, crowd-pleasing, fine all-purpose white wine.  While this may have seen some oak, it is well-integrated and tastes almost as if it had been steel fermented, which is the lighter style of Chardonnay that many prefer.  Lots of fruit to this as well.  Jonathan bought six bottles, and I bought one. 

2010 Domaine Bunan Moulin des Cotes Rose
(Bandol - France)  $25.99

For those of you who follow my blog, you know that I am quite fond of Rose.  Bandol, in southeastern France, is one of the premier growing regions.  The grapes in this wine are Mouvedre, Cincault and Grenache in a 40/20/40 blend.  Both the Mouvedre and the Grenache can be quite strong tasting with their skins on, but are easy-drinking and quite elegant as components in Rose.  I bought a bottle of this delicious wine and think it will be a great alternative to red or white.

2009 Capcanes Peraj Petita (Spain) $22.99

Having been to Spain last year, and having revelled in its food-friendly wines, this Grenache-focused blend caught my interest.  The aroma was quite alluring and the taste was smooth and not overly tannic or oaky.  I can see this as a very viable option for a red meat-based main course, such as brisket, but it is light enough to also work with chicken.  I was ready to buy it when I tasted the next wine a second time.  

2009 Dalton Shiraz (Galili Israel) $22.99  

Generally, I find Australian Shiraz (and most California Syrah) too big for my taste, at least for accompanying meals.  Of course, as I learned in English class, there are always exceptions to the rule.  Dalton is one of those.  On first taste, I wasn't overly impressed by this wine.  Although oak aged, it was relatively easy drinking, although not terribly complex.  On my second taste, though, I found it compelling, and a narrow winner over the similarly-priced Capcanes.  It will be at my second night of Passover.    

2009 Domaine du Castel "Petit Castel"
(Judean Hills - Israel) $45.99

Alright, now we're getting serious, both in flavor profile and price.  That is not to say that the better the wine, the higher the cost, but sometimes you get what you pay for.  Not everyone will appreciate this Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Cab Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot, because some folks just don't like Bordeaux.  But this was very accessible (from a taste, if not a price standpoint), complex, earthy and lush.  My friend Jonathan bought a case (just one of the reasons he is my friend), and this wine will be a welcome guest at any Seder or other special occasion.  Wine Advocate gave it an 89, which is close enough to 90 to round up. 

2011 Golan Moscato (Israel) $12.99  

A number of years ago, my nephew-by-marriage Randy - and a wine aficionado himself - introduced me to Italian Moscato as a perfect ending to a Thanksgiving meal, when you can't eat another thing.  Passover is kind of a Thanksgiving, and this lightly sparkling palate cleanser is a fun, low alcohol way to drink your fourth cup of wine.  Its green apple and tropical notes will be part of our second night Seder.   

Conclusions 

As always, taste is very personal.  Even experts disagree, and we're by no means experts.  You don't need to spend a lot for an alternative to Mogen David or Manischewitz.  We would be interested in hearing your favorites and what you think of ours.  If you need some help in selecting wines, you can refer to Adam Dromi at The Wine House, who was good enough to sponsor the tasting (adamd@winehouse.com or by phone 310-479-3731 ext 208). 

The Wine in Spain is Mostly Very Plain

The title is a bit unfair to "My Fair Lady" and Alan Lerner, because I am relatively new to Spanish wines. Also, on my recent first visit to that fabulous country, I didn't necessarily sample its finest wines. By the same token, the rain in Spain doesn't stay mostly in the plains, but rather in the north and the mountains. We still like the song. 

Spain is one of the three largest wine producers in Europe (behind Italy and France), but much of its production isn't up to its neighbors' standards. That could explain why a young lady ordered her red wine mixed with orange soda at a tapas bar on our last night. 

Over the past few years, Spanish wine more often has been praised for its bargain prices rather than its distinctive quality. My relative ignorance was over-matched by a Los Angeles bar tender who claimed that Rioja was a grape, not a region. It's okay.

In fact, Rioja is one of Spain's famed growing regions, along with Ribera del Duero and Priorat. Located in north central Spain, the Rioja region is an hour southwest of San Sebastian, and about the size of Delaware. The Rioja region is divided into three zones, with its best wines coming from the Rioja Alta (which also is the name of one of its top estates). The principal grape of Rioja is Tempranillo, a medium-bodied, spicy red grape displaying strawberry/raspberry/cherry flavors that traditionally has paired nicely with many lighter foods. But things are changing, as you'll see below.  

Riojas come in three to four designations, based on how long the wine has been aged. The young wines (labelled Joven or Cosecha) only require six months of barrel and bottle aging, and sometime see no oak at all. Although common in Spain, and a good choice with lighter-tasting meals, I haven't seen much of this in the U.S. Much more common here is Crianza, which requires 12 months of barrel aging with another 12 months of bottle aging. Reserva wines require an additional 12 months of bottle aging, while Gran Reserva requires 24 months of barrel aging and an additional 36 months of bottle aging. Interestingly, the wood used in the barrels - adding body and spiciness to the wine - is American oak, which tends to impart a stronger flavor than French oak. Cutting through the math, the younger, less aged wines tend to be lighter in flavor and less expensive. Crianza is a fine everyday wine for most occasions.

Another interesting - if unwelcome - development in Spanish wine is the departure from the traditional, lighter, lower alcohol wines in favor of new-world style, higher alcohol wines. It's not clear whether this is a temporary aberration or a real trend; stay tuned. Generally, the newer wineries seem to be producing a bigger bodied, more robust Tempranillo, which can almost be poor man's Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Most of the wines I sampled in Spain are not readily available here, so I substituted those that you can find here.

At a local wine-tasting hosted by Vibrant Rioja, my friends Shana and Jeff, along with my wife and I enjoyed the 2006 Bodegas Lan Crianza, with its bright berry flavor and  velvety, mouth-filling texture. From one of Rioja's biggest producer's, it is one of the Wine Spectator's Top 100 wines, and only costs $10. You can find it at K&L Wines in Hollywood.

At the same tasting, we also enjoyed the unoaked Senorio de Pedro Pecina Joven Rioja, which will set you back $14. This wine was spicy and very easy drinking. You can find it at K&L Wines in Hollywood.

Our tour guide in the town of Ronda claimed he had worked for the government promoting the wine industry. His advice: Don't spend too much money. He recommended the 2007 Marques de Caceres Crianza, and I gave it as a gift to my new friend Darryl and his wife Cristina, who had been our very gracious, unofficial Madrid guides. Upon returning home, I found the wine at none other than Trader Joe's, and brought it for dinner with Darryl's LA-based sister Teri and her husband Bruce. To my palate, it was easy drinking, smooth and relatively light. About $15. Now they know what I spent, although I brought mine back from the duty free shop, so I get credit for schlepping.

The 2007 Bodegas Puelles Crianza Rioja ($16) is a more voluptuous, layered offering that offers a lot for the money. It's a direct import by K&L Wines, which means that they've cut out the middle man and should be able to deliver the wine for a better price. This elegant wine tastes of mixed berries and a hint of earth, aged in used (which diminishes the impact) French and American oak barrels. We consumed it with ahi baked in lemon the first night, and then chicken baked with pesto and goat mozzarella cheese the second night. Everyone was happy, except for our dog, who didn't get any leftovers.  

At a recent Saturday tasting of Rioja and Ribera del Duero wines at K&L Wines, I sampled some more expensive wines (from $30 up to $60), but some of my favorites were less. The 2005 Vina Santurnia Reserva Rioja, at about $16, was very smooth, fairly simple, but a great food wine. Available at K&L Wines and at The Winehouse in West LA.

Changing gears - or colors - to a white Rioja, all of the tasters were wowed by the 2010 Bodegas Muga Blanco Rioja. This highly rated wine (both Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Steve Tanzer's International Wine Cellar gave it 90 points) is a blend of 90% Viura and 10% Malvasia fermented in new French oak for 4 months. Per Parker, it tastes of white flowers, mineral, melon, and is impeccably balanced. Tanzer notes the melon and nectarine aromas plus mineral and lemon zest on the long, smoky finish. We just thought it would be great on a warm afternoon, with appetizers or a light fish or chicken disk. For about $14, you can check it out yourself at K&L Wines or for $15 you can try the 2009 bottling at Woodland Hills Wine Company. Viura is said to be akin to Italy's everyday wine, Trebbiano; in a clever turn of phrase, one creative wine writer, Chris Kern, dubbed Malvasia the Joey Tribbiani of grapes, easy-going and fun to be around.

And now moving a bit southwest of Rioja to Ribera del Duero - named for the region along the Duero River - I really enjoyed the 2006 Alonso del Yerro Ribera del Duero. Generally speaking, I find that wines from this region are a bit earthier and fuller-bodied than those from Rioja, even though the grape is still predominantly Tempranillo. This wine is rated 90+ by the major four rating gurus, but, because palates vary, the reviews capture different flavor profiles. Parker describes it as layered and elegant with "an alluring nose of smoke, scorched earth, Asian spices, incense, and blackberry." Tanzer tastes "fresh red berries and cherry on the nose, with sexy Asian spices and minerals adding energy. Seamless raspberry and candied cherry flavors stain the palate but are almost weightless." Wine Spectator notes "plum, licorice, meat and smoke" while  Wine Enthusiast says "bouquet of intense berry and black fruit" with "tobacco, chocolate and blackberry." You can see for yourself for about $20 at K&L Wines or at The Winehouse in West LA. Tastes much more costly. 

To be sure, you can find much more expressive and expensive Spanish wines, and I hope someday that somebody treats me to them. In the meantime, I'm going to check out more Riojas and Ribera del Duero, which can be both food- and wallet-friendly. Please let me know what you discover. If you are looking for a lighter Rioja, ask for the traditional style; if you want bolder, or earthier, seek out the Ribera del Duero or the newer-style Rioja.  

         

Pretty in Pink: A Rosé by Any Other Name

With apologies to John Hughes’ classic movie starring Molly Ringwald, most wine choices come down to red or white.  While I prefer red – albeit the lighter versions such as Pinot Noir – and white wines certainly have their moments, there are times when only a “pink” wine will do.  For me, it’s those hot summer days.  And, while the calendar says “October,” and it may be raining, I suspect there may be one hot spell left this calendar year, particularly since we didn’t get many hot days on the Westside of Los Angeles this summer.

Just what is “pink” wine?  It doesn’t come from pink grapes; it actually comes from red grapes, but the skins are removed early in the fermentation process.  Many of us Wonder Year kids (I prefer this to Baby Boomers) were introduced to wine-drinking through Portuguese rosés: either Lancers or Mateus (the latter always seemed more sophisticated because it had a cooler bottle and was harder to pronounce).  These slightly sparkling lightly alcoholic (11%) rosés were very easy drinking, were very popular in the 1960’s, 70’s and reportedly accounted for almost half of Portugal’s exported table wine in by the late 1980’s.  I guess that the John Hughes’ reference is somewhat timely, after all, because these wines also are nostalgic.  It’s not even clear what grapes were used, but at the time we didn’t care.

While Mateus and Lancers were my introduction to rosés, others were seduced by the now legendary “White” Zinfandel.  The Zinfandel grape originated in Croatia, grows in Italy as Primitivo, and came to California in the 1850’s, mostly with Italian immigrants.  It yields a big red wine that pairs well with steak or veal chops.  Removing the grape skin shortly after the grapes are crushed, however, transforms the proud, intense and higher alcohol Zinfandel into the mild-mannered, easy-drinking pink wine that was very much at home at both pool and cocktail parties.  Think of it as a reverse Superman transformation.  Although wine snobs may jeer at White Zinfandel, apparently it outsells the much lauded “red” Zinfandel six to one.

Enough of the nostalgia and the history lesson, this posting is about the pink wines you might enjoy today.  And there are several interesting choices, both from here and from abroad.  As you may already have surmised, rosés can be spawned by any number of red grapes.  Given my penchant for Pinot Noir, it shouldn’t be a surprise that I am fond of Pinot Rosés.  My first discovery came on a trip to Mendocino, when I happened upon the Lazy Creek Vineyards in 2005 off a dusty road near Philo, then owned by Josh and Mary Beth Chandler.  At the time, it was just them, their dog and this astonishing wine, which some say have hints of banana and others hints of strawberries.  Since then, the winery has been purchased by the Ferrari Carano folks and, while I abhor the conglomeration of the wine industry, at least Ferrari Carano has a fairly solid rep.  Try it; for about $20, it’s a lot more affordable than Pinot Noir.

A strong contender in this price range is Etude’s Rose of Pinot Noir (which you can find at Wally’s).  Another good choice is Kathy Joseph’s renowned Fiddlehead Cellars’ spunkily-named Pink Fiddle.  Both are great accompaniments to appetizers or could even hold their own with a light meal.

Another intriguing option is Lorenza Rosé is produced by Napa Valley mother-daughter team, Melinda Kearney and Michèle Ouellet.  Since few California wineries produce rosés, I was intrigued to find that this venture ONLY produced rosé.  You have to admire their courage (or their confidence).  I met Melinda and Michèle at a wine tasting at The Wilshire, where I was impressed by them and their wine.  Unusual for an American wine, the 2010 Lorenza Rose is comprised of a very French mix of grapes: Mourvedre 39%, Cinsault 26%, Grenache 24%, Carignan 11%.  The label (featuring a photo of Michèle) suggests that this is fully American version of Rosé guided by the principles and ideals of Provence.  You can purchase it via the website, or through K&L Wines or at The Oaks Gourmet Market near Franklin and Bronson.  You can enjoy it, as my good friend Jonathan and I did, with appetizers at Lucques.  Fermented dry, with a low alcohol content of 12.5%, Lorenza Rosé can even stand up to heartier meals, such pork chops, according to the December 2009 issue of Food & Wine magazine.

The French, of course, have a bit of experience with rosés.  After all, the word even sounds French!  Many regions of France produce rosés, the most famous being Provence and the revered Bandol.  The source grape could be Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre, Cinsault, Carignan or some combination of the above, as well as Pinot Noir.  My friend Etty Lewensztain of Plonk Wine Merchants, says that generally, the lighter the hue of the wine, the lighter the taste. 

The tiny appellation of Bandol is located directly on the Mediterranean coast, just east of Marseilles.  The ancient steep vineyards of Bandol – first planted by Phoenician Greeks c.600BC – are the perfect home of Mourvedre.  At le Galantin, the best vineyards are planted on poor clay and sandy soil on old terraces, known locally as restanques.  The largely south facing vineyards get an extraordinary 3,000 hours of sun a year, but the heat is tempered by constant wind and also humidity from the sea.  The Domaine Le Galantin Rose has fresh berry fruit flavors and a crisp finish.  It is composed of 50% Cinsault, 25% Mourvedre and 25% Grenache.  While many Bandol roses run $30 or more, the le Galantin can be found for under $20 at The Wine House or K&L Wines, where I was introduced to it by the delightful Christie Cartwright. 

Also from Provence is the tantalizingly-named Whispering Angel from Chateau d’Esclans.  It is a blend of Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvedre, light, fruity yet dry, with almost a creamy mouthfeel.  Plus, the bottle has an alluring, dare I say angelic shape.  It was the consensus winner of a tasting of Provence wines at The Wine House, where even my Cabernet Sauvignon-loving friend Joel admitted he liked it.  You can pick it up for less than $20.  I bought one for my angel, but I’m saving it for that hot evening, so don’t tell her.

There's one more wild card to add to this mix: 8th Generation Vineyard Pinot Meunier Rosé.  This beautiful bottle of wine is a tribute to my Canadian friends and Canadian winemaking.  The family emigrated in 2003 from Germany, home of the previous seven generations of winemakers.  My wife and I consumed a bottle of this wine while waiting 2½ hours for a table at Vancouver’s highly-rated VIJ’s Indian fusion restaurant.  To make the wait more palatable, they provide you with free appetizers.  And it’s an honor bar.  Okay, I’d never waited that long for a table, but it was a beautiful evening and it gave us a chance to chat with a number of Vancouverites. 

While I'd be flattered if you took my advice on these wines, part of the adventure of wine tasting is discovering your own favorties.  You don't need any sophisticated education to judge for yourself.  While rosé wine tastings are not all that commonplace, there is one place to go where you can check out a range of rosés without buying the who bottle.  Each summer, Campanile offers its own version of the “Rose Parade” – rosé flights (three 3-ounce samples, as I recall).  With close to 20 rosés in their Parade, you’ll have plenty from which to choose.  Go on Thursday, grilled cheese night, and the whole bill shouldn’t set you back much.  Good time guaranteed.

Another little baby child is born in the ghetto...Touring the Lompoc Wine Ghetto

Neither Elvis Presley (nor lyricist Mac Davis) were talking about the Lompoc Wine Ghetto when they released their socially-conscious hit song in 1969, later covered by Dolly Parton, Natalie Merchant and, oh yes, Cartman (of Southpark fame). Linguists, historians and the religious can debate the appropriateness of using "ghetto" to refer to an industrial park that serves as an incubator for established as well as up-and-coming Santa Barbara wineries. This locale, however, is producing some mighty fine wines.

On a recent weekend, a good friend out from Chicago declared that he'd never gone wine-tasting. Since his preference ran towards Pinot Noirs, this seemed the perfect excuse to check out the Lompoc Wine Ghetto. A map is available, but you'll hardly need it. While not bucolic tasting rooms with vistas of vineyards, it offers a perfect one-stop shop for Pinot, featuring more than a dozen vintners, including Evening Land, Fiddlehead, Flying Goat, Longoria, Loring, and Samsara. All within walking distance in an office park of corrugated blue and white buildings located behind Home Depot. Most tasting rooms are open only Friday thru Sunday, although a couple are also open on Thursday. 

Driving there from Los Angeles is fairly straightforward: take 101 north past Santa Barbara, and exit at Santa Rosa Road in Buellton. Head west, perhaps stopping at Alma Rosa for the scenery and Richard Sanford's Pinot and Pinot Blanc, on to Route 1, where you take a right (north). Route 1 intersects itself and Route 246 at Home Depot; continue straight (veering slightly right) to the right of Home Depot, which takes you to 12th Street, and then turn left on Industrial Way to enter the Ghetto.

Tastings are $10 a person at each winery, but you can share a glass. Look for passport weekends where you can sample all of the wineries for $30. My friend's tolerance put a limit on my tastings, but we still managed some stellar stops:

Fiddlehead Cellars was crowded with tasters, but in good spirits. I particularly enjoyed Kathy Joseph's Happy Canyon Sauvignon Blanc ($25), her Pink Fiddle (Dry Rose of Pinot Noir - $22 - for which one good-hearted man credited me with cojones for serving at a recent get together) and, of course, her signature, somewhat austere Seven Twenty Eight Pinot (named for the mile marker of the vineyard - $42). We also liked, and my friend purchased, Kathy's Oldsville Reserve Pinot sourced from Oregon's Willamette Valley in Oregon ($50), which offers more earthiness as well as a lot of fruit. Kathy is one of the queens of Santa Barbara, and specializes in hand-crafted Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs.

Flying Goat Cellars is Norm Yost's playground. His 25 years of winemaking seems to have kept him perpetually youthful, and while the label is playful, the wine is quite serious, crafted from small batches from individual vineyards, each with their own characteristic. I've talked up Norm in my Santa Barbara futures post, and am happy to report that I've just been notified that my allotment of 2008 Dierberg Vineyard Pinot Noir ($44) had arrived. Happier still, upon tasting the Pinot in the Ghetto, it was still my favorite, an opinion shared by other tasters. Still, I am very fond of all of Norm's Pinots, and encourage you to check them out.

Samsara is the child of Chad Melville, who in turn is the son of Ron and Donna of Melville Winery. I featured Chad in my Santa Barbara futures post, because he is turning out some marvelous Pinots. For what ratings are worth, his vineyard designate 2008 Pinots garnered scores averaging in the 90's from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. All of these wines sell in the mid-40's, and are feminine, silky and mouth-filling.  By the way, Chad also makes award-winning Syrah. 

Palmina - an Italian love story. Truth is, I didn't visit Palmina's tasting room on this trip, having recently sampled their Italian varietals. Founded by winemaker Steve Clifton in 1995, Palmina is named in honor of his great friend Paula (Palmina in Italian), who taught him to love cooking, wine and the Italian lifestyle before she succumbed to breast cancer. Serendipity intervened in 2000 when Steve sought someone who could speak Italian to visitors from Italy and was introduced to Chrystal Seals, who not only provided the needed translation but shared his passion for wine and food and all things Italian. Chrystal soon became involved in all aspects of Palmina. They were married in Friuli, Italy in Spring 2004. Palmina is not trying to emulate the Italian versions, but rather interpret the styles to the growing conditions unique to Santa Barbara County. Try their Barbera, Nebbiola, Savoia (blend of those grapes plus Syrah) or my favorite Undici (made from Sangiovese, the grape of Chianti). All reasonably priced.

Before I leave you, I would be remiss if I didn't remind you to get your tickets for the best annual wine and food event in Los Angeles: Wally's 8th Annual Central Coast Food & Wine Celebration, from 1-4 PM, Sunday, July 31. The tickets are a bit pricey, at $95, but include food from such wonderful restaurants as Hitching Post II, Spago, CUT, Bouchon, Lucques/A.O.C./Tavern, The Hungry Cat, Osteria & Pizzeria Mozza, Artisan, Brothers’ Restaurant at Mattei’s Tavern, The Wine Cask, Jar, Mélisse and Wilshire.  Plus, 150 wineries, including ones that I've touted in this and prior blogs as well as must-tries Brewer-Clifton, Herman Story, L'Aventure and Tantara. And, it's for charity, supporting the Michael Bonaccorsi scholarship fund for the winemaker who died too young from a heart attack. I'll be there; say hello.   

Que Sera Syrah: The Futures Are Ours to See

2011 Santa Barbara County Wine Futures 

With apologies to Evans and Livingston for rephrasing their Academy Award winning song, the Wine House gave us an opportunity to glimpse the future at its third annual tasting on May 22, 2011.  Whether it's the economy or whether it's a second-fiddle attitude toward Santa Barbara (compared to Napa and Sonoma), each successive year the LA tasting has been scaled back from its grand inaugural at the Century Plaza Hotel.  Fewer wineries, and fewer wines from each winery.  It's a sad commentary, because Santa Barbara offers some truly wonderful wines; moreover, it's in our backyard.

This year's event was held above the Wine House, spilling out from its Upstairs 2 restaurant space onto its parking lot.  Missing were some of my past favorites: Alma Rosa, Au Bon Climat, Kaena and Qupe, to name a few.  Each winery was limited to two wines.  While this allowed me to sample virtually everything, I prefer to taste more efforts from select wineries.

Futures, if you're not familiar with the term, are wines that have not yet been released.  They are next year's releases, and may take up to a year to be delivered.  Consequently, what you taste is not fully evolved; another year of aging will bring out the wine's truer characteristics.  That being said, wineries offer futures at a discount because they get your money up front, and give you an opportunity to secure a wine that may be in short supply... in the future.   

Insights and Buying Recommendations
Reminder: My taste tends toward lighter to medium body reds, and leaner, less oak-infused whites.  I prefer food-friendly wines, whatever that means.  So, by varietal, here is what I would buy.  You can order these wines by June 30, 2011 through the Wine House.  Where possible, I have also included links to the wineries, so you can learn more about them, if you wish.

Syrah

Tensley 2010 Tierra Alta Vineyard - $28 (release price $36).  While many California Syrahs are big, fruity wines, Joey Tensley's are more elegant and easy-drinking.  By the way, his other offering Tensley Colson Canyon Vineyard was #17 of the Wine Spectator's Top 100 last year.  A bigger wine, but still fine ($28 with a $38 release price).  Joey strikes me as a no nonsense gentleman farmer, and a good guy.  His wife, Lea, offers a fruit-forward Lea 2010 Turner Valley Pinot Noir - $28 (release price $38) that was the favorite of one taster.

Harrison-Clarke 2008 Estate Santa Ynez Valley - $26 (release price $36).  Another rounder-styled Syrah from a truly nice couple, who hail from my hometown of Chicago.  I preferred this profile to the richer, more costly 2007 Cuvee Charlotte Estate SYV - $44 (release price $52), but that's just me.

Viognier

Blair Fox 2009 Paradise Road - $24 (release price $29).  I've loved these guys ever since the first SB Futures tasting.  They special in small lots, hand-harvested grapes and you can taste the love.  I think I shared my Cheese Store of Beverly Hills stash with Blair and Sarah at the 2nd annual futures event; I didn't realize that there would be food... 

Cold Heaven 2010 Le Bon Climat Santa Ynez Valley - $25 (release price $32).  Okay, I confess, I have a bit of a crush on winemaker Morgan Clendenden, but I wouldn't be alone.  This top-notch effort really sang to me and can age a bit, which is rare for California viogniers.

Chardonnay

Clos Pepe 2010 Barrel Fermented Santa Rita Hills - $22 (release price $28).  A really nice, entry-level-priced offering from Wes Hagen.  Nice balance between fruit and light oak; medium bodied, more of a French Chablis style.  You've got to love a winemaker who has his own blog, http://www.weshagen.wordpress.com/.

Paul Lato 2010 "Le Souvenir" Sierra Madre Vineyard Santa Maria Valley - $45 (release price $55).  Paul's reputation as a winemaker preceded him, the "mailing list only" kind of praise that could give someone a big head.  On the contrary, I was greeted by a warm, kind-hearted man who I immediately liked.  Paul is from Poland, again showing the international nature of today's winemaking, with stops in Spain and Toronto where he studied to become a sommelier.  Perhaps that gave him a particular focus on pairing wine with food.  His Chardonnay was ripe, round and almost Burgundian in character.  It is definitely a wine for a special occasion.

La Fenetre 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard, Block Eleven, Santa Maria Valley - $45 (release price $60).  Joshua Klapper named his wine for "window" in French, because he believes that it acts as a window to his soul.  That's what draws me to winemakers.  As one who worked his way into winemaking from being the wine director at Sona, he learned his ropes from such legends as Bob Lindquist (Qupe) and Jim Clendenden (Au Bon Climat).  Wonderful balance in this Chard; again, more of a French style.   

Pinot Noir
My favorite varietal provided many winners.

Flying Goat 2008 Rancho Santa Rosa Vineyard Santa Rita Hills - $38 (release price $46).  Norm Yost has been making wine for 25 years, and still embodies a youthful, playful enthusiasm.  He must be doing something right!  Love their logo and their wines.  Well-balanced, elegant, with nice fruit.

Foxen 2009 La Encantada Vineyard Santa Rita Hills - $50 (release price $56).  While a bit out of my usual price range, this wine has a silky mouthfeel and a long finish with great balance.  When in Santa Ynez, a visit to their hilltop tasting room is a pleasure.  Winemakers Bill Wathen and Dick Dore have been delivering smiles for 30 years.

Samsara (Sanskrit for "eternal cycle of life") 2009 Turner Vineyard and/or 2009 Melville Vineyard, both Santa Rita Hills - $37/38 (release prices $46/$48).  I love both, with a slight nod to the latter.  Winemaker Chad Melville (son of Ron Melville of Melville Vineyards and Winery) scores again.  The Santa Rita Hills is a glorious region for Pinot Noir.  Both are balanced with plenty of fruit.

Ojai 2008 Presidio Vineyard Santa Barbara County - $40 (release price $46).  Winemaker Adam Tolmach produces this cool climate Pinot Noir that is gentle, feminine and has a nice finish.  Just barely over 13% in alcohol, this wine will age nicely, but is drinking wonderfully even now.

Melville 2010 Carrie's Santa Rita Hills - $42 (release price $50).  I have been a fan of all of Melville's Pinot Noirs, even the entry level, which Carrie's is not.  This new offering is quite extraordinary, combining fruit, earthiness and a great mouthfeel.  Winemaker Greg Brewer (of Brewer-Clifton fame) is one of the region's stars.

Grenache

Dragonette 2010 Santa Ynez Valley - $29 (release price $35).  I am a big fan of this winery, more known for their Pinot Noirs, which I enjoyed at a recent Wally's tasting.  Winemaker Brandon Sparks-Gillis delivers, and if you're a fan of this varietal that has a relatively small profile in California.  Lush and round, but not overbearing. 

Jaffurs 2008 Santa Barbara County - $29 (release price $34). Just plain good, with a lingering finish.

Rey-La Cosecha 2008 Grenache Central Coast - $19 (release price $24).  You've got to love winemaker Chris and Deanna King (who had a baby around her neck).  For the price, you can't go wrong.

Pinot Gris

Carr 2010 Turner Vineyard Santa Rita Hills - $14 (release price $20).  Rare sighting this far south of Oregon, but a fine, easy-going summer wine.  I've been a fan of Ryan (and Jessica) Carr's Pinot Noirs for sometime, but this is a great alternative for a party-starter.  Visit their tasting room in downtown Santa Barbara.

Sangiovese
Carr 2010 Vandale Vineyard Santa Ynez Valley - $22 (release price $30).  One of my favorite varietals (the grape of Chianti and Brunello), it's not often successfully realized in California.  Rich, round and smooth; nice effort.

Sauvignon Blanc
Dragonette 2010 SantaYnez Valley - $20 (release price $26). Their entry-level is fine, crisp and refreshing, although I prefer their Happy Canyon release (available at Wally's).

Rarer Varietals
Holus Bolus 2010 Blanc (Roussane) - $16 (release price $20).  More often seen in blends, this Roussane was a balanced, fruity yet round offering.  Could stand up to food.

Tercero 2009 Camp 4 Mouvedre Santa Barbara County - $25 (release price $30).  Full disclosure, I didn't actually taste Larry Schaffer's wines this time around; I couldn't get past the crowds.  Perhaps due to his marketing background, Larry  puts on a great show.  Because I have enjoyed and purchased his wines in the past, this gets my nod.  Try his Rhone varietals and see for yourself; he and his wines are infectious (in a good way).

How can I taste so many wines (and remember)?
I sniffed, swished and spit (and only occasionally swallowed); that's the only way to get through this many wines.  While I'm still honing my spitting skills, it seems somewhat off-putting to go through this routine and then declare to the winemaker, "That was wonderful."  And, although I hate to waste, I've got to keep some wits about me. Oh, and I take notes...

You have less than a week left to purchase these futures, so don't hesitate or you'll have to take your chances finding (and paying for) these wines after they are released.  If enough futures are sold, perhaps next year the event can regain some of its former luster.  As always, please let me know your impressions, and if you enjoy my perspective, please share with your friends.  Thank you.