Don't Pass Over These Other Passover Wines, unless you're wed to Manischewitz or Mogen David...

First of all, a disclaimer: I am NOT an expert in Kosher wines, let alone Kosher-for-Passover wines.  I grew up, like many others, on Manischewitz and Mogen David; my brother and his wife, while appreciators of other wines, prefer Manischewitz for Passover, perhaps because it makes the holiday special or reminds them of past associations.  Both of these legendary wines (hailing from the 1920's, with no discernible expiration date) are made with Concord grapes (think Welch's), which were easily available to New York Jews who created these wines.

While I know rabbis and more observant Jews who are fine with non-kosher wines, there are times when I would like to bring a nice bottle of kosher wine where it might be important to the recipients.  So my friend Jonathan and I took the opportunity to sample kosher wines at a recent tasting hosted by The Wine House.  This post includes our picks, and a bit of background.  

What makes a wine Kosher?

Of course, I've asked (and been asked) this question many times.  Having been steeped in the Socratic tradition, I think of the question in reverse: What would make a wine non-kosher?  In the old days (i.e., pre-Internet), I might have consulted the elders or The World Book Encyclopedia (Britannica was too dense for me).  Today, of course, I can ask Google, or with the iPhone 4S, Siri.  For any of you who have done research on the Internet, you find a range of information, some accurate, some not so; of course, this probably would have been true when consulting the elders as well.

According to http://www.wine.com/, a kosher wine begins like every other – as grapes on a vine that may be grown and picked by any one (kosher or non-kosher). However, from crushing through bottling, the wine must be handled and processed by Sabbath-observing Jews. Barrels and tanks must be deemed kosher for use. The rabbi or Kashrut trained supervisor must observe all of the wine making process and no work can be done on the Sabbath.

The experts behind Wikipedia take a stricter approach, saying: To be considered kosher, a Sabbath-observant Jew must be involved in the entire wine making process from the harvesting of the grapes, through fermentation to bottling.  While none of the ingredients that makes up wine (alcohol, sugars, acidity and phenols) is considered non-kosher, any ingredients that are used, including finings (to refine the wine), must be kosher.^[1]  In addition, wine that is described as "kosher for Passover" must have been kept free from contact with grain, bread and dough.^[2]  None other than Martha Stewart agrees with all the above (but, then again, her researchers might have consulted Wikipedia).

As with many things in Judaism (or perhaps any religion that allows commentary), what makes something kosher has many, often conflicting opinions.  The kashrut laws involving wine also are concerned with who handles the wine; this brings us to the term mevushal, which according to Covenant Wines is perhaps the most misunderstood term in the kosher wine tradition.  In Hebrew, mevushal means literally boiled. However, mevushal wines are not quite heated to a boiling temperature. Mevushal wines are nonetheless flash-pasteurized to a temperature that meets the requirements of an overseeing rabbinical authority. The technique does not necessarily harm the wine. In fact, a few well known non-kosher wine makers, such as Château Beaucastel, utilize flash pasteurization and believe it may enhance aromatics.

Not unexpectedly, Conservative and Orthodox Jews have different views on kosher wines.  For a more in-depth discussion, see both the aforementioned Wikipedia and a very studious exploration in Kosher Wine 101 from the Wine Musings Blog, which contains some interesting nuances concerning the law of Shmita that forbids the sowing or growing in the land of Israel every 7th year.  This gets a bit dense for me, involving labels, approvals and work-arounds.

Now, on to the wine tasting

Jonathan and I tasted more than a dozen wines.  While all of the wines were palatable and a better alternative to Manischewitz, the following stood out to us, either because of their easy drinkability, low price, complexity or a combination of the above.
 
 

2009 Gilgal Chardonnay
(Golan Heights - Israel) $11.99

Easy-drinking, crowd-pleasing, fine all-purpose white wine.  While this may have seen some oak, it is well-integrated and tastes almost as if it had been steel fermented, which is the lighter style of Chardonnay that many prefer.  Lots of fruit to this as well.  Jonathan bought six bottles, and I bought one. 

2010 Domaine Bunan Moulin des Cotes Rose
(Bandol - France)  $25.99

For those of you who follow my blog, you know that I am quite fond of Rose.  Bandol, in southeastern France, is one of the premier growing regions.  The grapes in this wine are Mouvedre, Cincault and Grenache in a 40/20/40 blend.  Both the Mouvedre and the Grenache can be quite strong tasting with their skins on, but are easy-drinking and quite elegant as components in Rose.  I bought a bottle of this delicious wine and think it will be a great alternative to red or white.

2009 Capcanes Peraj Petita (Spain) $22.99

Having been to Spain last year, and having revelled in its food-friendly wines, this Grenache-focused blend caught my interest.  The aroma was quite alluring and the taste was smooth and not overly tannic or oaky.  I can see this as a very viable option for a red meat-based main course, such as brisket, but it is light enough to also work with chicken.  I was ready to buy it when I tasted the next wine a second time.  

2009 Dalton Shiraz (Galili Israel) $22.99  

Generally, I find Australian Shiraz (and most California Syrah) too big for my taste, at least for accompanying meals.  Of course, as I learned in English class, there are always exceptions to the rule.  Dalton is one of those.  On first taste, I wasn't overly impressed by this wine.  Although oak aged, it was relatively easy drinking, although not terribly complex.  On my second taste, though, I found it compelling, and a narrow winner over the similarly-priced Capcanes.  It will be at my second night of Passover.    

2009 Domaine du Castel "Petit Castel"
(Judean Hills - Israel) $45.99

Alright, now we're getting serious, both in flavor profile and price.  That is not to say that the better the wine, the higher the cost, but sometimes you get what you pay for.  Not everyone will appreciate this Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Cab Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot, because some folks just don't like Bordeaux.  But this was very accessible (from a taste, if not a price standpoint), complex, earthy and lush.  My friend Jonathan bought a case (just one of the reasons he is my friend), and this wine will be a welcome guest at any Seder or other special occasion.  Wine Advocate gave it an 89, which is close enough to 90 to round up. 

2011 Golan Moscato (Israel) $12.99  

A number of years ago, my nephew-by-marriage Randy - and a wine aficionado himself - introduced me to Italian Moscato as a perfect ending to a Thanksgiving meal, when you can't eat another thing.  Passover is kind of a Thanksgiving, and this lightly sparkling palate cleanser is a fun, low alcohol way to drink your fourth cup of wine.  Its green apple and tropical notes will be part of our second night Seder.   

Conclusions 

As always, taste is very personal.  Even experts disagree, and we're by no means experts.  You don't need to spend a lot for an alternative to Mogen David or Manischewitz.  We would be interested in hearing your favorites and what you think of ours.  If you need some help in selecting wines, you can refer to Adam Dromi at The Wine House, who was good enough to sponsor the tasting (adamd@winehouse.com or by phone 310-479-3731 ext 208).