Miles of Smiles: How to Tour Santa Ynez

It's only 125 miles north of Los Angeles, but worlds apart.  Long overshadowed by Napa and Sonoma, Santa Ynez now boast some wonderful vintners.  The Wine House's annual Santa Barbara Futures tasting is a local way to sample its wines and meet the winemakers (info below right).  But, a day trip (or a weekend) to this beautiful region can be memorable.

So, how to do it?  There are several ways, but you should resign yourself to not seeing it all in one shot.  You should probably limit yourself to four or five wineries (which is also true for any wine tour).  Take your time to soak in the atmosphere, talk to the staff, and enjoy the journey; it's not a rally.  Even though the region is relatively compact, it always takes longer than you'd expect to get from one winery to the next.

I've divided Santa Ynez into several itineraries, from most taxing to the least.  Take your pick.  I've also listed some of my favorite spots to eat and to stay. 

Santa Rita Hills - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and some surprises

Richard Sanford


This is the area made famous by Sideways.  You can take 101 north through Santa Barbara, exit at Buellton (Santa Rosa Road) and head west.  This will loop you past some fine wineries: Alma Rosa (the new vineyard for Richard Sanford, the man who brought Pinot Noir to Santa Ynez in 1970, but also try his Pinot Blanc); Lafond; and Sanford (founded by Richard, where scenes from Sideways were filmed).

Kathy Joseph

You can continue about five miles past Sanford onto Route 1, which leads you into the nondescript town of Lompoc, which features some exciting wineries: Palmina (Italian varietals crafted by Steve Clifton of Brewer-Clifton fame), Flying Goat (great, fun Pinots from Norm Yost, who named the winery after his two pygmy goats) and Fiddlehead, the latter the work of Kathy Joseph, one of the leading ladies of Santa Ynez.  Try her Fiddlestix 728 Pinot (named for the vineyard's mile marker) or Happy Canyon Sauvignon Blanc.

Swing back east on 246 to Babcock and Melville (where Greg Brewer of Brewer-Clifton is the winemaker).  Both wineries (which share a driveway) feature Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as several other varietals.  Foley Estates' new tasting room is a few miles further west offering fine Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  For refreshing Viognier, Morgan Clendenen's Cold Heaven has a tasting room on Second Street in downtown Buellton.  Lots of choices; pruning recommended.

Santa Ynez Wine Trail: Heading over San Marcos Pass
Instead of continuing north on 101, once you hit Santa Barbara, look for the signs for Rte 154 (San Marcos Pass).  You actually have to exit 101 to connect, but it's a quick jog.  This route hikes you into the hills north of Santa Barbara, and creates a majestic descent into wine country.  Consider a breakfast stop at Cold Spring Tavern's log cabin.  This former 1860's stage coach stop also serves lunch and dinner.  In my younger days, I actually would drive there for dinner from LA, and, after a bottle of wine, drive back.  Of course, as kids, didn't we all jump of the swing set at its peak?

After descending into the Santa Ynez Valley, make a left on 246, and you'll immediately see Gainey Vineyards on your left.  They have a nice Riesling (as well as other whites and reds), interesting condiments for sale, and sumptuous restrooms (according to my wife, who once rested there while I went off wine-tasting).  Continuing west on 246, take a left on Rufugio, and you'll come to Kalyra, the private label for Australian winemaker Mike Brown.  This is a fun place to try white, red and dessert wines; the tasting room was reportedly built for Sideways.

Heading back north to 246, take a left and continue west to Alamo Pintado Road, where you take a right.  On the right, you'll come to Buttonwood, which offers an array of whites and reds, but has a particular nice Sauvignon Blanc called Zingy.  I met the very affable winemaker Karen Steinwachs at a South Bay wine dinner at Chef Melba; after 20 years in high tech, Karen is living her dream, having trained under Norm Yost and Kathy Joseph.  Continuing north on Alamo Pintado, you'll come to Lincourt on your left.  In its shaded tasting area, you can enjoy Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  Continue heading north, and take a sharp right on Roblar Avenue, then left on Rufugio, which will lead you to Brander (fine Sauv Blanc as well as Bordeaux reds).  Reverse course, continue east on Roblar to Bridlewood (broad selection of whites and reds).  Then call it a day.

Los Olivos Promenade: A deVine Walk
Sample many fine wines in one stop by visiting Los Olivos, also featured in Sideways.  To get there from LA, follow the signs for 154 once in Santa Barbara, and head over the San Marcos Pass (as in the second itinerary).  Continue on 154 and turn left at the sign for Grand Avenue/Los Olivos.  A couple of blocks south, you'll see tasting rooms for many wineries, including my favorites: Qupe, Epiphany Cellars, Longoria, Andrew Murray (whose father sold his vineyards from underneath him to Demetria in a modern-day Greek tragedy).  Another option along Grand Avenue is the Los Olivos Tasting Room, which looks like an old-fashioned bar, but features a variety of wines from  Santa Ynez and the Central Coast.  I was a member of its customizable wine club in flusher times.

Mikael Sigouin


A block west on Alamo Pintado, you'll find lesser-known discoveries Blair-Fox (wonderful Syrah and Viognier, plus I really like owners Blair and Sarah) and Dragonette (great Pinot and Sauvignon Blanc that I recently tasted at Wally's with John Dragonette).  Left down San Marcos, don't miss Kaena (from Hawaian-born Kaena "potential for greatness" Mikael Sigouin), which features mouth-watering Grenaches and Rhone blends.

Is that all, folks?
By no means.  I also like Hitching Post Highliner Pinot Noir and restaurant (of Sideways fame), as well as Foxen and Rancho Sisquoc (both on the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail), plus Tantara (visits available by appointment).  And new wineries (and sons and daughters of wineries) are popping up every day, so let me know your favorite that I may have overlooked.
            
Where to eat/Where to stay
For the Santa Rita Hills itinerary, I suggest packing a picnic lunch, but for the second and third itineraries, I have some suggestions.  We love the Los Olivos Cafe and wine merchant (Grand Avenue in Los Olivos) for lunch or a casual dinner.  In Santa Ynez, you can feel transported to Italy with a casual lunch or dinner at Trattoria Grappola.  We've enjoyed fancy dinners at The Ballard Inn and Mattei's Tavern (in Los Olivos).  Luxury bed-and-breakfast accommodations are offered by The Ballard Inn (in a one-horse town), and the Santa Ynez Inn.  Los Olivos offers the much larger Fess Parker's Wine Country Inn & Spa (the former Grand Hotel).  Any of these stays is within minutes of the wineries/tasting rooms in itineraries two and three.

Caveat, Map and Info Source
Wineries, tasting rooms and restaurants may change their schedule, so it's best to check in advance.  There are enough options, though, so you shouldn't go thirsty or hungry.

The Santa Barbara County Vintners' Association provides good online winery and event information, plus publishes online, downloadable pdf and hard copy maps (the latter, which includes discounts for tastings, you can find for free at most every winery).